Paint damage – Repair of minor paint chips and large scratches

Paint damage – Repair of minor paint chips and large scratches

Small stones are picked up while driving, which bombard the car's body and damage the paintwork. At high speeds, even small particles of sand become projectiles and hit the paint like meteorites. In winter, the front parts of the car body and the engine compartment cover are particularly exposed to the impact of pebbles. However, paint damage is no drama. Also, do not panic over scratches and minor damage caused while parking. Damaged areas can almost always be repaired with paint cleaners and restorators.

Many manufacturers offer special kits to repair small paint chips (the size of a pin head) caused by chipping stones. Repairing a nail polish with them is as simple as painting nails. An alternative solution is the varnish applied several times with a small brush in the place of the recess. There are also wax crayons in the color of varnish, scarring the damaged area. However, after a few washes of the car, such wax rinses off. The paint marking and color code can be found in the warranty booklet and on the rating plate in the spare wheel well.

Do not underestimate paint damage. Corrosion can get under the paintwork next to the damaged area. Under unfavorable conditions (humidity and high temperature) this may happen after a few days. It is therefore important to repair any damaged areas as soon as possible, if the corrosion has spread for months and years, its effects are visible in the form of craters and holes in the body sheet. Then only expensive body repair will help. We will not cover this in this tutorial, similar to accident repairs.

They will be needed to remove minor paint damage:

■ adhesive tape (special varnish),

■ newspapers or foil for wrapping the body,

■ A sandpaper wrapped wooden or cork block for sanding flat surfaces,

■ sandpaper of various grit sizes for dry and wet sanding,

■ putty and leveling compound, hardener. Spray putty for smoothing small unevenness of the sheet metal,

■ primer for the coat of varnish,

■ body-colored opaque paint,

■ emulsion and paint cleaner, preservative.

Repair of small paint chips caused by chipping stones:

1 Remove the varnish sticking out around the chipping with a thin needle.

2 If there is corrosion in the area of ​​the chipping, remove them carefully with the tip of the knife, apply a little rust remover and wait an hour.

3 Clean the spatter with gasoline or a solvent and dry thoroughly.

4 Spray some primer into the lid of the container and apply it with a brush or your fingertip to the damaged area. Wait, until the foundation is dry.

5 Using your fingertip or a plastic spatula, press a little filler into the chipping crater, to level the surface. Wait for it to dry. Have a cloth and solvent ready, to immediately remove any putty stains on the paintwork.

6 If you have applied too much putty, sand it with fine-grained sandpaper, pressing down on it with the tip of the pencil and carefully rotating the pencil.

7 Spray some varnish into the lid of the canister and let it cool for a minute. Apply the varnish in a very thin layer with a fingertip or with a brush.

8 After the varnish is completely dry (in summer, it takes two days, in winter five) polish it with emulsion, and the edges of the repaired place (if necessary) wipe with paint cleaner.

Polishing small scratches

1 Clean the damaged place with gasoline or a solvent.

2 With polishing wool, of the emulsion or cleaning agent, remove the traces of foreign paint on the car (if they are). Better do it several times than once, but too much. Try to keep the treated surface to a minimum.

2 If the scratch edges are still rough, then carefully sand them wet with a small strip of sandpaper, grain approx. 600. The paper should still be wet. Try not to wipe off the covering varnish.

3 Gently rub the emulsion into the scratched place. In this way, you will introduce the adjacent paint particles into the scratch.

4 Apply the preservative to the repair area.

5 People who pay attention to glossy paint should polish the entire body after the repair is finished.

Repair of large scratches on the paintwork

1 To repair deep scratches on the bumper, fender or door, dismantle the damaged part of the body. It will be much easier for you to carry out the necessary work.

2 Smooth the damaged areas thoroughly with sandpaper 80 or 100. If there is already corrosion, grind these places down to "alive."” sheet metal, brush with rust remover and wait an hour, to make it work.

3 Clean and degrease the repaired area with gasoline or a solvent and let it dry.

4 Mix the putty with the hardener. The mass prepared in this way will combine the damage with the varnish adhering to it. remember, that the putty sets and hardens very quickly. So prepare it in small amounts. You can cover minor damage with a liquid spray putty.

5 Apply the putty evenly and decisively in many thin layers. After about an hour, the mass will solidify.

6 Carefully dry any unevenness with grit sandpaper 240. Use water-based sandpaper for final sanding under light pressure (graininess 400).

7 Even noticeable scratches are evened out with a spatula spray and sand with water-based sandpaper 600.

8 Before painting, carefully remove any sanding dust.

Painting almost professional

9 Cover the place to be repaired thoroughly with foil or newspapers, stretchy, waterproof masking tape. The varnish will leak through the poor quality tape.

Caution. When painting, harmful vapors are produced. The room must be well ventilated.

10 Now apply the foundation (filler), which is a porous base for a covering varnish. Work cleanly and carefully; unevenness and water stains will not disappear under the next layer of primer, but they will become more and more visible. After the primer has dried, sand it with water-based sandpaper (graininess 600) and carefully wipe off any dust.

11 Apply evenly, several layers of topcoat spray with firm movements. Keep 20…30 centimeter distance from the painted surface to the sprayer. Before painting, warm the container with the varnish in hot water. The spray of varnish then escapes under greater pressure, it is better sprayed, which results in greater smoothness of the painted surface.

12 Tear off the edges of the masking tape, bend and coat the exposed surface. This way you will get a smooth transition to the original paintwork.

13 After the varnish is completely dry (two in the summer, in winter after five days) polish the repaired place with the emulsion, and the transition zone – varnish cleaner. If you attach great importance to the gloss of the paintwork, you can now polish the entire body.

If you are using spray varnish, cut a hole the size of the repair area in a large piece of paper, then the spray of varnish will be directed only at this place.

If there is a little cover varnish left on the scratches and scratches, it can be rubbed with polishing emulsion or paint cleaner. Try to use only good quality products.

Wrap sandpaper around the wooden block and sand the damaged area with even movements in one direction. Immerse the brick in the water every now and then, to flush the sanding dust out of the paper.

If you do not have any practice in puttying, try to do it on a piece of old sheet metal first. This way you will gain practice and confidence in your movements.

Hold the container with a steady hand and move it along the object to be painted. Do not interrupt the stream and do not make circular movements. This way you will avoid paint stains.

Disposal of paints and varnishes

Paint leftovers, solvents and cleaning agent containers should be disposed of. This also applies to dirty rags, brushes and spray cans. Empty cans of care products should be disposed of in specially designated containers.